Anthony Vaccarello’s Fall Winter 2025-2026 collection for Saint Laurent was more than a fashion show—it was a love letter to the house’s legacy, stripped of pretense and brimming with raw, poetic intensity. Inspired by model Amalia Vairelli’s moving description of Yves Saint Laurent as simply “love,” Vaccarello crafted an offering that prioritized feeling over flourish, proving that true luxury lies in emotional resonance, not excess.

Color as Emotion: A Vibrant Ode to Saint Laurent

Gone were the monochromatic severity of seasons past—in its place, a jewel-toned reverie of fuchsia, coral, amethyst, ochre, emerald, citrine, terracotta, and olive. These weren’t just hues; they were manifestations of mood, rendered in washed satin and technical jersey that moved with the ease of liquid. The effect? Garments that draped, clung, and floated with an almost sentient grace, as if responding to the wearer’s breath.

Silhouettes That Speak Volumes

Vaccarello revisited YSL’s iconic 1990s haute couture with inverted triangle shapes—strong, architectural shoulders tapering to narrow, precise hems. This tension between power and restraint played out in:
✔ High-collared coats that framed the face like a portrait
✔ Sack dresses with deceptive simplicity, their volume whispering rather than shouting
✔ Bow-back blouses that hinted at vulnerability beneath the structure
✔ Leather blousons cut with razor-sharp precision, their toughness softened by satin lapels

The message was clear: Saint Laurent’s DNA endures, but only if it feels alive.

Eveningwear Reimagined: Earthy Opulence

Eveningwear shed its noir mystique for something warmer, richer. Voluminous ball skirts in terracotta and olive swirled alongside silk camisoles and lace tops, while leather aviator jackets tossed over gowns introduced an unexpected edge. This was glamour without gloss, luxury that felt lived-in and lyrical.

Accessories as Afterthought (A Deliberate Choice)

Notably absent? Handbags. In their place:
✔ Leather gauntlets that evoked both armor and intimacy
✔ Dark, enigmatic shades shielding the wearer’s gaze
✔ Curved-heel slingbacks in patent leather, their arch a study in controlled sensuality
✔ Sculpted gold earrings that caught the light like flecks of poetry

Vaccarello’s refusal to cater to commercial expectations felt radical—a declaration that true desire can’t be commodified.

Backstage: The Philosophy of Less

“Something clean, with no ornamentation, no decoration, no… nothing.”

Vaccarello’s backstage mantra revealed his design purity. This collection wasn’t about embellishment—it was about the alchemy of cut, construction, and color. The result? Garments that felt inevitable, as if they’d always existed, waiting to be worn.

The Takeaway: Fashion as Feeling

In an industry obsessed with the next big thing, Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent offered something rarer: clothes that remember. They remembered YSL’s genius, the 1990s’ fearless elegance, and most importantly—the quiet power of wearing your heart on your sleeve (or in this case, your shoulders).

Final thought? The future of Saint Laurent isn’t just black. It’s blood-red, amber, violet, and every shade of emotion in between.