As the final curtain fell on Paris Fashion Week, Chanel presented a poetic transitional collection that balanced heritage codes with playful experimentation. The Fall Winter 2025-2026 show arrived at a pivotal moment for the maison, serving as both a swan song to the current era and a tantalizing prelude to incoming creative director Matthieu Blazy’s tenure.
The Ribbon Motif: Tying Past to Future
A monumental black ribbon installation dominated the Grand Palais Éphémère runway, establishing the collection’s central theme that wove through every look with varied sophistication:
✔ Structural satin ribbons anchoring military-inspired tweed jackets
✔ Whimsical organza bows securing dramatic balloon sleeves
✔ Pearl-edged cutouts revealing flashes of skin beneath
✔ Optical ribbon prints creating movement on fluid dresses
This recurring motif served as both literal decoration and metaphorical device – a symbol of continuity as the house prepares to pass its creative baton.
Playing With Perception: Chanel’s Surrealist Streak
Creative teams explored dimensional trickery throughout the collection:
- Ghostly tulle overlays transformed classic tweed suits into ethereal visions
- Fabric superpositions created mesmerizing trompe l’oeil effects
- The showstopping cherry red ensemble demonstrated Chanel’s mastery of head-to-toe coordination with matching tweed separates, gloves, hat and even boots
The collection’s most delightful moments came through Lagerfeld-worthy whimsy:
- Egg-sized minaudières dangling from chain straps
- Oversized pearl necklaces repurposed as crossbody bags
- Giant pearl embellishments on sleek black boots
Between Two Eras: Hits and Misses
While the show delivered plenty of commercial surefires – reverse monochrome twinsets, comfort-forward knits – some looks felt stuck in fashion limbo:
- Pierrot-inspired smocks lacked contemporary edge
- Baggy sweater dresses missed the season’s sensual mood
- Certain proportion experiments fell flat against stronger silhouettes
Yet even these less successful moments carried historical resonance, reminding viewers of Chanel’s rich archive awaiting Blazy’s reinterpretation.
The Transition Ahead
As models made their final loop around the ribbon-strewn set, the collection’s intentional duality became clear: enough classic codes to comfort longtime clients, enough playful experimentation to hint at coming evolution. The fashion world now turns its gaze to Blazy, waiting to see how he’ll untie this ribbon to begin his own chapter.
Final thought? This was Chanel in thoughtful metamorphosis – honoring its cocoon while preparing wings for new flight.
Which look best bridged Chanel’s past and future? 🎀